My deep love for Scotland began many years ago as I’m the daughter of British man raised in Scotland. Well, I suppose a love for something doesn’t just happen because its heritage runs in your blood because I can safely admit my home country doesn’t rub me the same way. But many moons prancing around Glasgow and the Scottish highlands, I found that my new home certainly won me over.
However, my admiration for its history began a little over a year ago. I certainly wish I had a deeper answer to the question, but I give most of the credit to Outlander for sprouting my passion for the history of my beloved country.
Since then, I’ve read several books about the history of Scotland, especially highlighting the parts involving the Jacobite Rising of 1745. Like with your favorite band, listening and reading about them isn’t enough — you’ve got to go see them live. So, I ventured up to the Scottish Highlands to the cozy city of Inverness where I’d be just a mere 30 minute bus ride from where it all took place — the Battle of Culloden, the last battle on British soil.
A brief history
The Jacobite Rising of 1745 was a rebellion led by Prince Charles Edward Stuart, also known as Bonnie Prince Charlie, to reclaim the British throne for his father James Francis Edward Stuart. Many Scots, several English, and even some French and Irish fought along Stuart in his quest for the throne. These supporters were known as Jacobites, deriving from the Latin name for Stuart.
Jacobites supported the cause for various reasons. Some were committed to the Stuarts’ right to the throne of Britain. Others hoped that a Stuart king would result in a return to the Protestant form of church government. Some were moved by family loyalties, and some simply got caught up in the adventure. Without a doubt though, many Scots became Jacobites because they resented the Union and believed a Stuart king would restore their parliament, freeing them from Britain’s chains.
Brave Jacobites saw many victories throughout the rising, but on the chilly and bloody morning of April 16, 1746, the Jacobites lost their final battle against the government within a mere 45 minutes, killing and wounding between 1,500 to 2,000 of their 6,000 men while the government lost around 800 of their 8,000 soldiers.
The next months were those of sorrow and fear as British Redcoats held no mercy, capturing Scots, suspected Jacobites, and slaughtering families. The result of the battle changed communities and the infrastructure of the Highlands forever.
Culloden Battlefield
On a crisp morning, I boarded the number 5 bus to the Culloden Battlefield, a few miles east of Inverness. I arrived to the countryside, approaching Culloden’s fortress-like visitor center. Built from wood and stone, its exterior has been designed into a memorial wall for those who have fallen.
Upon embarking the bus, I immediately felt the chills of the battle that was fought hundreds of years ago. One prince, one battle, two sides changed Scotland forever. I was standing in the middle of it. It felt like the temperature dropped at least 10 degrees in Culloden.
I didn’t know if I would feel emotional visiting a place that impacted communities such a long time ago, none of which were likely my own, but there I was walking anxiously walking through the museum, reliving the history of the mid 1700s with a tear in my eye.
The museum doesn’t tell the story one-sidedly either. On the right-hand side of the walls you can read the Jacobites’ story, and the left is the government’s story.
As I headed outside, the wind blew my hair and emotions around as I wandered the chilly trails of the battlefield, with dark clouds lingering above me. Passing by large stones dedicated to fallen clans, some which had fresh flowers laying before them, I wondered how different Scotland might be had a Stuart king taken back the throne. We’ll never know, but I know what side I would have been on.
I easily spending the better part of a morning and afternoon at Culloden. I can say that the museum showcases a thorough, powerful, and thought-provoking history of the rising and the last battle fought on British soil.
For more information about the Culloden Battlefield Visitor Centre, please see their website here.
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