Have you considering walking the Camino de Santiago? Whether you want to do the whole 780km stint or try out a shorter 100km Camingo de Santiago trek, this Camino guide will be sure to help you out.
Guest writer Ellen Blazer has traveled to 30+ countries, and recently spent six months traveling around the globe. She works as a travel agent, helping others embark on their own adventures. Learn more and start planning your next trip at totravelandbloom.com.
El Camino de Santiago is a series of walking paths across Spain. That’s right — people hike their way across the entire European country, and they’ve been doing so for centuries. Each trail is a spiritual walk across Spain, an ancient pilgrimage. Each hiker is known as a “pilgrim.”
Traditionally, pilgrims walked to the endpoint, the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela, starting from their homes. In modern times, there are about six well-established paths.
The Camino Frances (The French Way) is Camino de Santiago from France. This is the most popular trail, hiked by about 60% of pilgrims. There are five other well-established Camino routes.
In order of popularity, the others are:
Camino Portuguese (The Portuguese Way), Camino del Norte (The Northern Way), Camino Primitivo (The Original Way), Camino Ingles (The English Way), and Via de la Plata (The Silver Way)
In this post, we will focus on the most popular Camino de Santiago route: El Camino Frances. It’s highlighted as one of the best Camingo de Santiago routes as its a very historical, well-walked route with a lot to see.
Today, some pilgrims walk the Camino for spiritual reasons, others just for the sights and challenge.
El Camino de Santiago Facts
How long is El Camino de Santiago?
The route from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Santiago de Compostela is 780 kilometers — nearly 500 miles long. Pilgrims walk on average 15 miles per day.
How long does it take to hike El Camino de Santiago?
It takes roughly 1 month to walk El Camino. Some pilgrims stretch it out over 2 months, and some speed hike in about 3 weeks. You can decide what is best for you based off of your time, budget, and physical fitness.
Where does the Camino de Santiago start?
The Camino begins in a small medieval French town called Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Trains connect it to major cities in France, including Paris. Here you can find accommodations & gear to stock up.
You will also find a pilgrim office that offers traveler information and your pilgrim’s passport. All along the route, accomodations and churches will stamp your passport to log your journey.
Does the Camino de Santiago end on the coast?
Some people continue hiking onwards past Santiago, on El Camino Finisterre to the coast. This path leads to the Cape Finisterre Lighthouse. It was thought in ancient times as the farthest west one could go on land. Finisterre means literally: End of the Earth. This adds about 3 days on average to the Camino.
While on the Camino, I heard rumors that some pilgrims would burn their clothing and jump into the water au naturale to mark the end of their journey!
Where do you sleep on El Camino de Santiago?
There are tons of small towns along the path, so it is always easy to find a place to stay. In many places you can find accommodations to fit a range of budgets, but there are always affordable hostel options.
The hostels are called “albergues.” Most have many bunk beds packed into one room. I stayed in one room that slept over 100 people! I recommend bringing ear plugs.
What do you eat on El Camino de Santiago?
Just as it is easy to find sleeping arrangements, it is also simple to find food. There is enough infrastructure on the trail that you never need to pack more than an afternoon’s worth of meals. You can pick up food for a picnic from a supermarket, or order sandwiches at plentiful cafes.
Most town centers also have decorative potable water fountains, so you won’t have to worry much about water either.
If you don’t eat meat, check out these options for vegetarian/vegan food on the Camingo de Santigo (Frances).
What should I pack for El Camino de Santiago?
The single most important thing is good hiking shoes. Break them in to the best of your ability… although blisters will be inevitable. So bring a small first aid kit with band aids, antibiotic ointment, pain killer, and moleskin.
Pack your things in a 30-40 liter backpack. Bring your passport (real & pilgrim!), a water bottle, just a couple shirts and pants, quality socks, and soap. You will likely hand wash your clothes in the evenings. A toothbrush and shampoo, but no makeup or even razors. Bring a camera and phone, but no laptop. Rain gear and a warm layer. Sunscreen and a hat.
For sleeping, most albergues provide sheets and pillows, but you might want a sleeping bag liner for some lightweight warmth. I actually brought a tent on the Camino, but only used it 2 or 3 times, so I would recommend against that.
You may also want a guide book so you can read about each town along the way, to help you plan on-the-go.
Try not to let your backpack weigh more than 20% of your body weight (If you weigh 150 lbs, no more than 30 lbs). Every pound will count when you are carrying it all day everyday. If you pack too much, you may end up leaving “donations” along the way at albergues.
What is the best time of year to hike El Camino de Santiago?
I recommend springtime for completing the Camino. The wildflowers burst to life (see highlight #9 below!), and the weather is lovely. July and August will have the highest crowds and temperatures. No matter what, there are long stretches through fields with no shade, so prepare for heat.
What is the history of the Camino?
In biblical times when the apostle Saint James died, it is said that his body was put on a boat that landed on the coast of Spain. The king ordered the remains to be put in a special cathedral, which later became known as the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral.
For the last 1,300 years, Christians from all over Europe have made the spiritual hike through Spain to see it. The best routes spread by word of mouth. In the Middle Ages, over 250,000 people made the religious walk in Spain each year.
Can you get lost on the Camino de Santiago?
In the 1980s, a priest Father Elias Valina marked the entire path with the symbol of a yellow scallop shell on a blue background. There are also sometimes yellow arrows spray-painted on buildings as you walk through towns, or painted rocks through fields. You don’t really even need a map to follow the well-marked trail.
In 1993, the Camino became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In 2010, a movie about the Camino titled The Way was released. The Camino drew more attention, and today hundreds of thousands of pilgrims make the journey. So at the very least, if you don’t know which way to go, you can always find someone to help.
10 Highlights from Walking El Camino de Santiago
1. Hiking through the Pyrenees
Although this is Day 1, it could be the most scenic part of the Camino de Santiago. Upon leaving Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, you hike through the Pyrenees Mountains, ending in the small Spanish town Roncesvalles.
I loved hearing people’s greeting switch from “bonjour” to “hola” as we crossed the border on foot. Another common pilgrim greeting is, “Buen Camino!”
Crossing the Pyrenees Mountain Range is rigorous and steep. It takes 7-9 hours and many consider it to be the hardest part of the Camino. But it is painfully scenic, with mountainsides dotted with horses and sheep and greenery. In Roncesvalles, the mood is celebratory exhaustion, as pilgrims complete their first day.
2. Meeting new friends
On flat stretches and gentle hills, you can make easy conversation with fellow pilgrims. I met people from all over Europe, North America, and Asia, all with interesting stories.
One friend had begun from his home in Germany, just like medieval times. Another man carried a banjo the entire way, giving great impromptu concerts to fellow travelers. A friend from Japan got drunk on wine at Bodegas Irache (see #8!) and I passed him napping in a field of flowers mid-afternoon.
You may hike for several days with the same people, sleeping in the same albergues, then part ways due to a change in walking pace. If you meet them again later on down the trail, it feels like reuniting with old friends.
3. The spontaneity
Most pilgrims adjust their plans as they go. Each morning, I decided which town I hoped to reach for the night. Upon arrival in a town, I just asked locals (in broken Spanish) for directions to an albergue, and then asked the owner if they had an open bed. Sometimes I was so physically exhausted from the day’s hike that hearing “We’re full” was unfathomable.
The flexibility of not needing reservations is so freeing. It adds to the air of adventure and authenticity.
4. Walking through picturesque small towns
Usually, when I travel in Europe I visit major cities or sights. The Camino de Santiago was amazing to get a feel for a country by seeing small places that would never be on a typical tourist’s radar.
Most towns have central squares with fountains and small hole-in-the-wall markets. They have charming Spanish architecture with terracotta roofs and crumbling stone walls. I was surprised to find that amidst mazes of dirt roads, most towns still feature grand Catholic cathedrals with altars coated in gold.
Surrounded by so much deep character and history, it’s easy to imagine the countless pilgrims who trekked this spiritual trail before me.
5. Experiencing generosity from locals
Pilgrims don’t exactly blend in as they walk across Spain. Pilgrims are sweaty, teetering under their loaded backpacks, and not always proficient in Spanish. But standing out is not a bad thing in this case.
Locals smile and point you in the right direction if you look lost. They tell you about their shops and families. One man took me to his family wine cellar and offered us homemade wine.
Many churches offer free or by-donation accommodations to pilgrims. They welcome you with a “pilgrim blessing” and communal meal in the evening, where pilgrims from all over the world lend their hands to help cook.
Whether you begin your hike along the Camino solo or part of a group, you will never be alone.
6. Ordering a beer after a long hike
Our bodies are not familiar with hiking 15 miles every day for weeks straight. The feeling of finally reaching your stopping point for the night and sitting with a cold beer is unparalleled satisfaction.
You can drink a beer with other pilgrims and swap stories from the day, then compare your plans for tomorrow’s route.
7. Taking rest days in cities
Some of the bigger cities you pass through when you hike the Camino de Santiago are: Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos, and Leon. These cities have rich culture and pose exciting opportunities to break from walking. Many pilgrims space rest days through their journey.
However, one of my favorite rest days was in Pamplona. This city is the capital of Navarre and famous for ‘The Running of the Bulls’ during the July San Fermin festival. It’s also known for having been frequented by Ernest Hemingway. The old town is surrounded by medieval city walls, and there is a huge pentagon-shaped citadel that holds parks, moats, and canons. The city hosts vibrant nightlife, where you can bar-hop and sample tapas.
If you are on a tight schedule, you can skip rest days. However, if time allows, you won’t regret pausing your el Camino walk to experience the cities more fully.
8. Passing through vineyards
There is a fabled & magical place along El Camino de Santiago called Bodegas Irache. This is a winery near the town of Estrella. The vineyards date back to the 10th century, when Benedictine monks were well known for serving wine to pilgrims on the Camino.
Today, Bodegas Irache has paid homage to the generosity of those monks… by putting a literal wine fountain on an exterior wall, treating pilgrims to free wine.
That’s right — you can fill your water bottle with red wine, and toast the monks and fellow pilgrims who made their journey 10 centuries before you.
9. Incredible wildflowers
The fields and rolling hills of the Camino are truly stunning any time of year. Dotted with bursts of color from wildflowers, they look straight out of a painting.
Some of my favorites were poppies and dill flowers. I also found white seeded dandelions the size of my fist.
The abundance of wildflowers will keep you motivated even on the hottest uphill stretch.
10. Feeling accomplished every single evening
Each morning began at the crack of dawn, with the sound of pilgrims packing in the dark. The goal was to greet the sunrise and finish hiking before the hottest part of the day.
Then, the days ended with limping to bed, after tending to blisters for 20 minutes — ready to pass out, then wake up sore to do it over.
However, discomforts couple with the beauty of the Camino to create a true sense of accomplishment. Whenever you see a world map, you will know you walked across the country of Spain.
The Camino is about beauty, community, and endurance. It is spiritual if you want it to be and it’s a meaningful way to interrupt and re-center your life.
2 Responses
I learned about the El Camino back in a high school Spanish class, and it’s honestly gripped my imagination since. The thought of hiking through miles of open fields, meeting travelers from all over the world, learning about the history of Europe and Christianity along the way, and chatting with locals of picturesque towns gets me excited all over. This post was really helpful in offering a first hand perspective of what to expect and how to prepare for the El Camino. Fingers crossed I’ll experience it in the near future.
Macy, that’s so exciting to hear. I hope you decide to take the journey. 2021 is an extra spiritual year to do it because it’s a Holy Year (when Saint James Day falls on a Sunday.)